Martha Couloir, Mt. Lady Washington Trip Report
Trail: The Martha Couloir, Class 5.4/5.5, WI3, 11 miles, 4500 ft elevation gain (June 3rd, 2008)
For some reason I have not bothered to do any alpine routes for a good 6 months. I have not even had the interest to try any over the whole winter of 07/08 and have contented myself with hiking up Green Mountain in Boulder three to five times a week. This isn't to say I've been being lazy as of late and I've actually been doing a good bit of stuff in the interim. Since my last alpine trip my wife and I received our WFR certifications, our PADI open water divers certification, gone diving in Cozumel, I've gotten in the best shape of my life, I've done a good bit of ice climbing, and I'm pushing into following 5.10b/c and leading 5.8.
As always happens I start to get the bug again and decided to look at what I wanted to do this summer. I guess I don't care as much about numbers of peaks any more and want to concentrate on just climbing fun stuff (as well as finishing my last two 14er's). One route that has been on my list for a long time is the Flying Dutchman with a link up of the Stepladder on Longs. Brian Hynek also has been staying out of the alpine and decided he'd be interested in the route.
We met at my house in Boulder at 3:30 in the morning and headed to the Longs Peak trailhead. The weather was forecast to be good with only a 10 percent of showers. We left the parking lot around 5:00 AM and set out for our chosen route. By the time we reached the ranger cabin below the loft the sky had gotten pretty cloudy and it was flurrying. The last time I saw cloudy weather on what was predicted to be a bluebird day I ended up huddled on a belay below the top of the Notch Couloir with lightning smashing down around me. With this in mind I said I wasn't going up Longs Peak. Brian agreed and we decided to hit Martha Couloir.
We headed over to the base of the couloir and found the first rock step almost entirely melted out. We climbed up the snow and carefully avoided falling through some brittle ice to a deep, wet hole below and then made our way up some easy but loose rock steps to the base of the snow where we pulled out our ice tools and donned our crampons.
We soloed up the snow to the first constriction where we found a mixture of snow and brittle ice. At one point we climbed over some ice that had a stream of water running under it. While not particularly scary or hard it was a little nerve wracking to think of falling into the water. At the next rock step we decided to rope up. The ice was pretty thin and we weren't sure if it would hold our weight or if it would break away with us on it so prudence demanded a rope. If the ice had been more solid the whole route would have been a fun solo.
Brian took the first lead and headed up and immediately out of view. I have to say that this route is really a bowling alley when it is melting. Ice chunks and rock chunks flew past me on a regular basis and at one point a tennis ball sized rock came flying down and cracked me on the head. Luckily for me my helmet took the brunt of it and I was fine but it would have knocked me unconscious or killed me if I wasn't wearing one. I'd strongly advise against climbing this route with anyone in front of you. There was a pair of climbers below us who took cover and waited for us to finish the whole route before they started up it and I hope we didn't get you guys with anything.
Brian coming over the first step, no snow or ice today
Heading up to the first constriction
Looking at the start of the normal 4th pitch
Time to rope up, the ice might not stay on the rock
The rock that nearly took out my face
The last pitch and my first ice lead, self serving action sequence to follow
Brian coming up the last bit of snow
The Flying Dutchman and Lamb's Slide
The East Face of Longs
Almost to the Top of MLW
10 percent chance of showers today
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