Crestone Needle & Humboldt Peak Trip Report
Day 1
Crestone Peak (FAILED ATTEMPT)
Trail: Northwest Couloir II, Class 3 , ~ 6.5 miles, ~3050 ft elevation gain
It was Friday, July 16th, 2004 and I was all set to go and climb in the Sangres. This would be a big moment for me, after summating a Sangre I would finally have climbed in every one of Colorado's ranges. Jen, Brian, and myself set out for the trip. Jen and Brian had less adventurous goals than I did and planned mostly to relax around South Colony Lake and do some lower level hiking, I planned on hitting both of the Crestones and Humboldt Peak.
We left around 7:00 PM. The traffic out of Denver was really thick and it was raining. I have noticed that people in Colorado get really nervous and slow in the rain, this added a considerable amount to the drive time. We reached the infamous 4WD road at around 11:30. I played Mozart as I drove up it (it was funny that the symphonies reached their crescendos as I was on tougher sections, I should have been playing Barber's adagio). This road really stinks, my Tacoma performed admirably and I made it up in an hour but I really see no reason to beat a vehicle like that, I'd probably backpack it before driving it again. I might feel differently if I could afford repairing self inflicted automobile wounds.
We parked at the upper of the two lots and went to sleep in the truck.
We awoke around 4:00 and Jen decided to stay asleep, she said she would hike around the lake area and meet up with us later.
Brian and I decided to go and try the NW couloir on Crestone peak. The route is straightforward enough. We walked up the road, quickly gained the dirt trail towards the lake.
We walked from the lake to the upper lake and found ourselves below the Humboldt Peak, Kit Carson Ridge. This ridge is gained via a set of switchbacks beginning at the upper lake. As soon as we gained the ridge we tried to stay below the top of it to avoid any unnecessary elevation gain. This proved pointless as we were eventually forced right onto the ridge proper. Walking the ridge as allot of fun, you can stick with the path and keep the difficulty to class 2 or you can follow the spine of the ridge for some fun class 3 scrambling. Along the way I took several pictures of flowers. The wildflowers here never cease to amaze me in their colors and varieties.
Along the way across the ridge we ran into a woman named Allison who was leading three dogs and apparently attempting Humboldt while two of her partners were climbing the Prow on Kit Carson. I talked with her for awhile and helped point out a route for a dog named Angie who had two different colored eyes. Angie seemed to be having some considerable difficulty on the ridge and I suggested that the dog may not be safe. I was happy to read in a future trip report that Allison turned around for fear of the dog's safety. Many people confuse that a dog will do something for you with a dog should do something for you. I have seen dogs do some incredible things happily and some incredible things unhappily. Only one of those situations is fair.
After leaving Allison, Brian and I headed over to the valley between Kit Carson's Peak and the route over to Creston Peak, here is a shot of Crestone Peak.
The route to the NW entrance requires that you initially climb through a weakness below it. We found the climbing to be straightforward class 3 but were quickly confronted by some steep sections of snow. Brian was not comfortable climbing some of the snow so he decided to wait at a point before the couloirs entrance.
I circumvented some of the snow by climbing up to a ledge and crawling on all fours across it. After this I quickly gained the couloir where I kicked steps up the steep snow to a section of steep 3rd class rock. I made good time up the rock but right before the exit was covered by ice. At this point I decided to turn back. I was not comfortable with the route and figured it was better to come back another day rather than risk it.
On the way down the weather started to turn ugly and Brian and I exited down a steep path before the ridge. On the descent we had to go one at a time, any rocks dislodged quickly turned to an avalanche of missiles making two at a time descent impossible. I made my way down to a ledge system which I down climbed. At the bottom of the trickier part I jumped onto a snowfield and quickly self arrested. From there I glissaded to the bottom and moved out of the path of the falling rock. I spied an easier path down from the top and talked Brian through the descent. After this point the down climb was just arduous hike over talus.
At the end of the talus I waited until I saw Brian was at a safe point and headed back
I accidentally took the wrong path around the lake and found myself looking through dense wood towards the correct path. I figured that a stroll through the woods would be fun and set my direction with a compass. The walk back was allot of fun, I climbed down cliff systems, walked across fallen trees over streams and finally regained the road. The trek through the forest lifted my spirits. Everywhere I looked there were streams and trees and flowers, I felt truly in touch with the nature around me.
I arrived back at the truck where Jen, Brian and I reconvened. Brian was exhausted and set up a tent. Jen and I sat in the truck and talked and ate lunch. Around 4:00 PM a hail storm set in and I prayed my new truck wouldn't get dented. Fortunately it was fine. Jen and I actually went to sleep at around 7:00 and stayed asleep until the alarm went off at 3:20 the next morning.
Day 2
Crestone Needle
Trail: South Face II Class 3 (inadvertent class 5 read below), 4 miles, 3150 ft elevation gain
I awoke at 3:20 and had my morning coffee quickly followed by a Gatorade and a sandwich. Jen and I spent some time talking while I packed up for the day. I left the car near 4:45 and headed out. I made good time but passed the turn off and lost about 20 minutes. Once on the correct path I headed towards broken hand pass..
The trek from the lake path to the pass took about 30 minutes. Once on the pass there is an easy dirt path over to the base of the south couloir. Right before the couloir you come to a bit of sketchy third class down climbing. The nice thing is that the rock has so many holds it feels like a wall at a gym.
I entered the couloir and started climbing. The switch over to the easier couloir is easy to find and the climbing to this point was straightforward except for some wet areas. I remember only about 10 minutes of steeper stuff I wasn't looking forward to down climbing (if only I'd known).
As usual I headed for 4th and 5th class up climbs near the top because I get a kick out of tougher climbs.
I wish I'd played better attention to the route because my descent turned horrible (I took the wrong couloir). I made my way to the top at 7:30 where I snapped a couple of pictures.
The wind at the top was whipping fiercely and I decided to begin my descent.
At first I thought I was OK and climbed quickly. I came upon a sketchy 4th class down climb and here I should have known better and turned back. I was a fool and kept going. The next down climb was 5+ and required a good bit of mental concentration. Soon I came to a down climb with a rappel sling set up. For some stupid, asinine reason, I free handed down it.
I have to say that I don't know at what point my wits and common sense left me. I realized my serious error when I finally came upon a rappel point which was not climbable. The walls sloped outward leaving no way to climb. I looked out and saw a huge drop down to Cottonwood lake. I think it was here that I realized the enormity of my error. I didn't want to climb back up because the prospect of returning over the sections I had come down was very daunting. I spent some time considering my situation. I quickly realized that I may have to wait at a point overlooking some tents on Cottonwood lake to call for help if I couldn't find another way out. I contemplated the fact that no one would know where I was and a broken leg might mean death. The only positive of this point was that I managed to keep a cool head. It was good to learn that I don't panic.
I climbed back up a 5th class section and headed towards the wall of the couloir. From there I gained a new couloir and headed down into it. The bottom was even worse with no prospect of escape. At this point I really started to worry. I contoured up the side of this couloir and into the next.
God must have been smiling on me because this one let out below the correct route.
I sat down and collected my wits, this basically meant shaking for about ten minutes. It was here that I decided I would buy walkie talkies, carry rope, and bring a partner on any real climbs I attempt in the future.
Here is a shot of some people attempting the couloir for scale.
I think the pursuit of the 14er's is allot like an addiction. People obsess over it and it becomes not just a way of life for them but the meaning of life. This was well displayed by my idea to head up Humboldt immediately.
Humboldt Peak
Trail: West Ridge II, Class 2, 4.2 miles, 2400 ft elevation gain
It was 10:00 AM when I left the Broken hand Pass and headed towards Humboldt. I climbed down and back onto the main pass. From here I snapped a shot of the beautiful Crestones.
I met up with Jen and Brian as they were descending the switchbacks from the Humboldt saddle. They had been to tired to finish but Jen said she would wait for my return while Brian headed to pack the car.
Humboldt is a mountain I could normally roundtrip in less than 2 hours but today it was all I could do to keep walking. Only the thought of driving that stupid 4WD road again kept me going.
The mountain itself is beautiful and I have never seen so many cairns or marmots before in one place.
No, I didn't feed him, he just sat there, mugging for the camera.
I kept on up towards the peak. The climb was easy class two. There is a false summit on Humboldt but the nice thing is that a totally flat valley separates you from the peak.
The weather kept threatening during the climb but I watched the clouds and the wind and figured I was safe. I summated around noon.
At the top I rested and enjoyed the scenery. I also spent allot of time thinking about my career in the mountains. I love climbing them, I love being in them. The mountains make the rest of life seem more vivid and worthwhile. I also decided that I would no longer allow my hubris to jeopardize my friends and wife. I decided that from here on out I would only lead people up easy and safe routes. I would only climb tougher routes with equal or better partners. I would also make damn sure to be better prepared and cautious in the event of bad situations. After all I can do my bit to spare the Colorado tax payer by not requiring mountain rescue.
I headed back down and met up with Jen at the lower lake. I think having a near super-serious situation reminded me of how much I love my wife and how much more cautious I need to be in the future. We walked back down the path towards our car.
At the car we met up with Brian and headed back down the road where we picked up a hiker who seems grateful for the ride.
The drive back to Boulder was uneventful and I was happy to be back home with my cats. Next week I will hit Capitol.