Back To Huaraz July 4th - July 5th
I'd been pleasantly
surprised by the calmness of our ride up to Vallunaraju and had assumed
the guy working for Chris might be calmer than the ones we had
encountered in Lima. I was very wrong. Apparently he was
slow because taking a 2WD Toyota station wagon up a potentially 4WD
road just slows you down.
On the way back however he was nuts and
it was here, while looking at his eyes in the rearview mirror, that
I nicknamed him 'the lazy eyed psycho'. Since I was still
pretty
violently ill from altitude this made for an interesting ride. To
get down the road the driver basically floored the gas pedal and would
only slightly brake on turns. He would accompany the braking by
loud honking just in case someone/thing was in his way. At one
point a flock of sheep was being herded down the road and he simply
drove through them honking. A bit farther down the road he ran an
old man, walking with TWO canes off the road, then proceeded to run
several women and small children into houses and jumping into ditches.
At one point he skidded to a halt, with a tire touching a dog,
only because Jaime asked him not to kill it as it belonged to his
friend. I can only describe myself as feeling vastly relieved
when we were back at Cafe Andino.

Taxi Driver
Herding Sheep
Once back at Andino Jaime
headed off (he wasn't going to meet us again until after Pisco)
and we met up with Chris and told him we
wanted to postpone leaving for Pisco until Thursday morning. I
felt
that I needed an additional recovery day as even dropping back to lower
elevation hadn't made me feel much better. As it would turn out I
had
caught a fever and intestinal bug that I still had even when I
wrote
this report two weeks later. Chris was quite flexible and we
arranged
to stay at the Hostel Paris for another night while Chris set about
procuring a tent for the guide and porter to use as well as resupplying
our fuel.
I had been a bit dissapointed by not meeting up with
Enrique earlier in the week so we headed to Monte Rosa to see if we
could try again. Enrique was quite amiable and told us he would meet
us at 2:00 the next day to show us his house. After a bit to eat at
Patricks followed by a drink or two at Monte Rosa we turned in.
The next morning we did a bit of shopping and headed out to have some
lunch and get Brian his Ceviche (lime soaked fish, shrimp, and
tentacles). After lunch we headed over to Monte Rosa where
Enrique picked us up.

Lunch In Huaraz
Many Pictures
From Our Trip To Enrique's (The Owner Of Monta Rosa) House
Now the whole trip had felt pretty
surreal to me. The high peaks, the markets, the restaurants, the
rooster waking me up every morning but somehow having a conversation
with a guy when I didn't speak Spanish and ending up at his beautiful
house just to look at his parrots, and all thousands of miles from
home, seemed the most surreal.
To say Enrique had a beautiful house would be an understatement. He
owned two Blue and Gold Macaws, a Scarlet Macaw, around five amazons,
several finches, and a turtle. One Blue and Gold and the Scarlet were
pair bonded and the other Blue and Gold was a juvenile. One of the
amazons could sing 'Happy Birthday' in English, and the group of birds
just hung out in his gardens making any number of silly noises.
His yard was filled with a pond, flowers, and gorgeous landscaping and
had a view of The Huscarans and Chopicalqui. The inside of his
house (which was newly built to his design just two years ago) was
entirely laid out in beautiful timber and he had a collection of
hundreds to thousands of year old Incan artifacts. The whole
place was idyllic and it was a pleasure to be able to see it.
After a beer, Enrique had to get us back to Huaraz so he could work.
Since he had been kind enough to show us his home we figured
eating dinner at Monte Rosa would be in order.

Enrique's Yard

Enrique's View

A Couple Of Enrique's Birds

Inside Enrique's House

Enrique's Scarlet Macaw

Myself and Enrique, with a baby Blue & Gold Macaw and Several
Amazons

Enrique's Turtle
Apparently Enrique's wife
is quite a gardener, these were a couple pictures of particularly
beautiful flowers they had in their yard.

A Rose

Another Rose
Once back in
town Brian and I did a bit more shopping. While I had already
bought a ton of gifts for Jen I decided a few more could never hurt so
I picked up a matching necklace and bracelet with turquoise stones, a
matching necklace and bracelet with Cat's Eye stones, and a set of
earings. We then headed to Monte Rosa
for dinner. Brian had decided that his prusiks were the wrong
diameter for the rope we were using and we tracked down the Casa de
Guia shop so he could buy two Petzl Tieblock ascenders to replace his
Texas Prusiks with. We also restocked on a few things like bread,
yogurt, and water.
I'd say Monte Rosa probably had the best food we ate
in town and we spent a good while there eating and drinking before
finally heading to bed. During the night I slept fitfully and coughed
up blood several times. As much as I tried to ignore my sickness
it just kept getting worse. When the morning came I even
contemplated staying in Huaraz because I knew that going to altitude
would only make my condition worse. Chris assured me that I could
catch a
ride back Sunday when the driver was returning with Jaime for our
Chopicalqui attempt and even gave me a roll of single sole coins with
which he assured me I could barter my way back to Huaraz if I got very
sick earlier. Since I had come so far I figured I needed to at
least give the climb a shot.
At this point Marco showed up and introduced himself. We left
food and fuel with Chris for Jaime to bring in as a resupply Sunday and
dropped
our bag of gifts at his house for safekeeping. After this it was
off to Llaganuco Valley and a another terrifying cab ride. I
thought it was a particularly poignant moment when the driver handed
Brian and I a news article describing three Americans who had just died
in the mountains a couple days before. The
most memorable part of the ride (before entering the national park) was
picking up enough of the cab driver's conversation with Marco to get
that he only
stopped running over dogs because it made his wife cry.

More Shopping In Huaraz
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